You just rented a car hauler, now what? Loading a vehicle on a flatbed trailer is not hard, but it is unforgiving. Get the ramps, the centering, and the straps right and the car rides like it is bolted down. Get any one of them wrong and you find out on the first hard stop.

Here is the process, in the order you should actually do it. It works for a daily driver, a project car, a side by side, or anything else that rolls onto a deck, whether you are hauling across Englewood or across the state.

What You Are Working With

Our 20ft Car Hauler is the trailer most people use for this job. It has a wood deck, slide in ramps, tie down hooks, and electric brakes, and a winch is available if you would rather pull the car up than drive it.

Before You Start: Check the Tow Vehicle

Check your owner manual for the maximum towing capacity and make sure the truck or SUV can move the loaded trailer safely, not just get it rolling. Tongue weight generally runs somewhere around 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight, so your receiver and ball need to be rated for the loaded number, not the empty trailer.

You also need a brake controller, because this trailer has electric brakes. If you are unsure how that works, read our guide to electric brakes in Florida, and use the tow guide to confirm your vehicle is matched to the trailer before you book.

Step 1: Park on Level Ground

Find the flattest ground you can and set the trailer there. A level will tell you more than your eyes will. An unlevel surface lets the vehicle roll while you are loading and lets the load settle unevenly once you are moving.

Step 2: Set the Ramps

Position the ramps so they form roughly a 15 degree angle with the ground. Line them up parallel to each other and symmetrical on the deck, then look down the length of both before anyone gets in the car. Most loading problems start here.

Pro tip: Drive up at 1 mph and listen. You should hear a steady, even sound as the tires climb. Grinding or squealing usually means a ramp has shifted, so stop and reposition instead of powering through it.

Step 3: Drive It Up or Winch It Up

You have two options. Driving it up is faster: hold a steady 1 mph, keep the wheel straight, and avoid sharp steering inputs on the ramps.

Winching is the safer choice, especially with a low car, a dead car, or a nervous driver. Attach the winch cable to the frame at the center and pull slowly and steadily. Never jerk the winch or take up slack in bursts.

Step 4: Center the Car on the Deck

Once the vehicle is fully on the deck, put it dead center. The deck is 83" wide, so split the difference evenly side to side. A centered load keeps weight balanced over the axles, keeps the trailer tracking straight, and keeps the car from walking sideways on the highway.

Step 5: Secure It With Four Straps

Use a minimum of four straps, one at each corner, and bring straps rated for the vehicle you are moving. Run them over the tires rather than around the wheels, and angle each one slightly forward or backward so it pulls down as well as in. Anchor to the frame and the tie down hooks, never to body panels or suspension components.

Do not shortcut this. Two tie down points is not enough, even when the car feels solid sitting still. All four corners have to be secured or the vehicle can roll and shift laterally under hard braking or a sharp turn.

Step 6: Walk the Trailer, Then Recheck on the Road

Before you pull out, walk the whole trailer and inspect every strap. Pull on each one. Confirm the car has not moved off center, the ramps are stowed and pinned, and nothing loose is riding on the deck. Then check your lights and your brake controller.

Vibration and road conditions loosen straps as you drive, and the first few miles do most of it. On longer hauls, pull over every 20 to 30 minutes and retighten anything that has given up tension. A strap check takes less than a minute and it is the cheapest insurance on the trip.

Common Mistakes That Cause Problems

Loading on uneven ground. Gravity works against you the entire time.
Skipping the centering step. An off center load creates handling problems you cannot correct at speed.
Using worn straps. Frayed webbing or bent hardware has lost holding power you cannot see.
Relying on two tie downs. Four point securing is the standard for a reason.
Ignoring a new sound or vibration. Pull over and inspect the load instead of hoping it settles.

When a Car Hauler Is Not the Right Trailer

If you are moving a tractor, a skid steer, or anything with tracks, an equipment trailer with a loading ramp handles it better. Our 24' Equipment Trailer is built for heavy machinery, and the 14ft Equipment Trailer is the right size for landscaping equipment and ATVs. Both have winches available.

What to Bring When You Pick Up

Bring your driver's license and proof of insurance. If you want extra coverage while the trailer is in your care, damage protection is available. New to towing? Start with our first time trailer renter's guide.

Rent a Car Hauler in Englewood

We rent car haulers and equipment trailers seven days a week, and we serve customers from Englewood, Port Charlotte, Venice, and across Southwest Florida. You can see real time availability and book online, or call us at (941) 841-0828 if you want to talk through which trailer fits the vehicle you are moving.

How to Load a Car on a Flatbed Trailer: A Step-by-Step Guide